Vario Empire Art Nouveau - The Art of Hand-Engraved Dials in Watchmaking
In the world of fine watchmaking, hand-engraved dials represent one of the most captivating intersections of mechanical precision and artistic mastery. A hand-engraved dial elevates a timepiece into the realm of wearable art, speaking to the soul of traditional craftsmanship.
Ukranian master engraver carving a blank brass dial
Vario commissioned MwM Atelier to create a small batch of hand engraved dials. MwM Atelier, a family owned Switzerland based watchmaking studio with Ukranian roots have kept traditional crafts alive till today. Vario’s brief for them was to create an Art Nouveau design inspired by Orchid flowers - celebrated as Singapore's national flower, fusing it into Vario's Art Deco Empire watch, marrying the two art periods together.
Engraved dials with Rhodium plating
Hand engraving and Art Nouveau share a deep, natural kinship—both are rooted in the celebration of organic beauty, flowing lines, and intricate detail and were popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The engraver, much like an Art Nouveau artist, must harmonize form and function, blending the softness of floral design with the hardness of metal. The result is a dial that doesn't just tell time—it tells a story of nature, elegance, and timeless craftsmanship.
MwM Atelier owner Ivane
Today, this labour intensive craft is mainly reserved for the haute horology. Ivan from Vario and Ivane from MwM Atelier put their heads together to find a way to bring this craft to watch enthusiasts at a more accesible price.
Completed batch of hand engraved dials
The floral pattern is hand engraved by Ukrainian master engravers. Each dial takes 2 days to complete and one slip of the graver can ruin hours of meticulous work. The dial is plated with rhodium and 24k gold. The Art Deco numerals, Vario's scripted logo (designed to match the time period) and the lines are laser engraved before being filled with enamel by Ivane's wife, Olha. The dial is then assembled into a complete watch in Japan. 100 pieces of all 4 variants were made in total.
Enameling by Ivane's wife Olha
Combining traditional hand engraving with modern laser engraving offers a smart balance between artistry and efficiency, allowing for beautifully detailed dials at a more attainable cost. This hybrid approach preserves the soul of craftsmanship while streamlining production—making intricate, personalized designs more affordable without compromising on the watch’s aesthetic richness or emotional value. The finished product lends the dial a dynamic play with light—no two engraved surfaces reflect light the same way, which gives the watch an ever-changing character.
Completed hand engraved dial with red enamel on the outer edge
The charm of a hand-engraved dial lies in its imperfections. Unlike mass-produced alternatives, each dial bears the signature touch of the artisan—the tiny quirks, variations, and signs of handcraft that machines simply cannot replicate. For enthusiasts, this human element is not a flaw but the very essence of its appeal.
Vario Empire Art Nouveau Outer Gold Handwound Dress Watch (45 pieces)
Vario Empire Art Nouveau Outer Black Handwound Dress Watch (20 pieces)
Vario Empire Art Nouveau Outer Green Handwound Dress Watch (15 pieces)
Vario Empire Art Nouveau Outer Red Handwound Dress Watch (20 pieces)
Specifications
Diameter: 38mm
Lug to Lug: 46mm
Thickness: 11mm
Strap Width: 20mm
Dial: Hand engraved
Movement: Miyota 6T33 Handwound 28.8kbph 40 hours power reserve
Crystal: Sapphire on front and exhibition caseback with inner AR coating
Water Resistance: 5 ATM
Strap: Vintage style Italian leather with slight bi-colour effect (20mm taper to 16mm)
Price: US$888
Owning a hand-engraved dial is more than appreciating beauty—it's preserving tradition. It’s a salute to a disappearing craft, a quiet defiance in an era of automation. In an age where precision is often equated with digital exactness, hand engraving reminds us that true artistry lives in the nuance of the human hand.
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